Olympus Climbing :: www.olympus-climbing.gr ::

Mount Olympus

The refuge

Access routes to the refuge

Activities

Research

Links

News from Mont Olympus

2012-01-24 : Winter 2012

Mount Olympus conditions update

It has been quiet a long time since my last correspondence in English. Following a cold and dry summer with plenty of rock climbing, trail running (Killian's Quest took place on Mount Olympus in June: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=axewzag1YCA)
and a great number of ascents to the main summits of Mount Olympus, winter appeared on the corner since mid-October when the first snowfall caused the Plateau of Muses to be inaccessible from the mules, hence leaving us to carry supplies on our backs, logging training miles for the coming winter and finish up a great summer season by the end of October.



Starting from Gortsia

November was an extension of the summer climate regime; cold and dry. Snow remained on the north facing slopes of the mountain, while disappeared from the south and east slopes. Mid December brought the first considerable snowfall on the mountain, a result of another cold front that arrived from the northeast (a result of the Siberian High variability). Snowline dropped to almost sea-level, while the road from Litochoro to Gortsia (main trailhead for winter ascents to the Plateau of Muses) was closed during Christmas and New Years.



Petrostrouga 1950m

Three weeks after New Years the snow pack remained fresh and powdery on the north slopes while it was blown away due to the high intensity NE winds that hammered the mountain during and after the New Years. The result of these climatic conditions is that currently the upper mountain (above 2300m) has been left with relatively little snow (all ridges are dry), while fresh powder has accumulated on the lower slopes.



Heading towards Skourta

Our first visit of the year on the Plateau of Muses on the weekend of 22nd and 23rd of January was characterized as windy (NW winds with gusts over 60km/h) cold (-20oC, -30oC including wind chill factor) and dry. East facing slopes (including the coloir of Mytikas) are characterized by wind slabs, under of which there is thick layer of loose unconsolidated snow, increasing the avalanche danger.



Laimos ridge




Agion Antonios & Zonaria




Kalaia & Mt Athos




Coming snowfall + existing conditions == Increased Avalanche danger!

Given the forecast for the coming days with considerable amounts of fresh wet snow from the southwest, the avalanche danger will increase even further, so extra caution is required towards the summit of Mytikas, if climbed from the coloir (Louki) through the Plateau of Muses.

http://wxmaps.org/pix/euro.vv.html
http://forecast.uoa.gr/forecastnew.php?opt=1
http://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Olympus/forecasts/2917

To my perception currently the safest route to Mytikas is from the west side of Mount Olympus from the military camp (KEOAX) through the route KEOAX - Emergency hut - Agios Antonios ? Skolio ? Skala ? Mytikas. Snow from the ridge of Skala has been blown of, so bolts for belaying are visible, whereas the last part of the route is characterized by unconsolidated snow, but still climbable.

Some photos from our ascent during 22nd and 23rd of January are cited below.

I wish a Good Winter season to everybody with safe enjoyable climbing and skiing!

Mike Styllas




2011-06-24 : Summer season has kicked off
Summer season has kicked off, with Catalan mountain runner Killian Jornet flying up Mount Olympus from Dion to the summit and back to Litochoron in a mere 5:20'. Following a late winter the refuge has been open since the beggining of June and will remain open untill end of October. Wishes for a enjoyful summer!
2010-12-06 : Since winter has refused to appear in its full power yet, we have started to recall the beauties of last winter season

Look the article in PDF file format (9 Mbytes) here

2010-11-09 : Summer season ends
The summer season is well behind since we had the first considerable snowfall at the end of October.
Now, we have to wait for more snow to accumulate on the slopes of the mountain so that we can start the winter season.
For the winter the refuge will be open from Christmas to begining of April.
I leave you with some photoes which legends are in Greek, so you can to make your own interpretation!
I wish you all a nice winter!!!
MS

2010-06-01 : Synopsis. Winter 2010
The winter season is coming to an end in the Mountain of Gods, with spring conditions characterizing the lower and middle parts of the mountain, whereas winter conditions still exist on the upper mountain. A few days ago, on the upper mountain there was fresh snow while flowers blossom in the temperate zone between 600 and 1800 meters of elevation.
From a climate standpoint, the winter season was characterised by generally warm and wet conditions. Such conditions resulted in increased snow accumulations above 1800m of elevation, where in the lower parts there was relatively rapid meltdown of the snow especially in the south and west slopes in the weeks following each snowfall event, a result of the frequent southerly winds. In addition, southerly winds carried increased amounts of African dust, the subsequent deposition of the dust on the snow gave the mountain a colourful winter look. In between the warm events there were interventing cold outbursts from Siberia, creating identical conditions for climbing on the upper mountain. The temperature variations risen from the succession between dry / cold and wet / warm events resulted in increased avalanche and landslide activity.


The plateau of Muses in winter coating.


The abrupt temperature variations resulted in increased mountaineering activity on the mountain, since the snowpack in the lower parts had either melted down or was hard packed, whereas on the higher mountain conditions were identical for skiing and climbing. With such conditions more that 120 made it to the summit of Mytikas from both the Louki (route from the Plateau of Muses) and from Skala.


Climbing the Coloir of Mytikas, in perfect conditions.


Winter climbing and ski mountaineering activity were increased this winter as well. Many different routes were repeated on the north faces of Stefani, Skolio and Mytikas. Ski touring indicates also increasing activity with the most popular side being the west slopes of the mountain (starting poing the Military Camp from Elassona side) but a few teams also visited the Plateau of Muses skiing down steep slopes.
The most remarkable ski descent took place in the beginning of April when Austrian extreme skier Eva Walkner (www.evawalkner.com) together with fellow Austrian skier and base jumper Andy Razic, and George Klaoudatos skied down the coloir of Stefani together with some steep runs below the Throne of Zeus (Stefani). It seems that during every winter season more people are visiting the mountains high peaks, more people come to climb winter alpine routes and more people come either to ski tour or to ski down Mount Olympus Steep slopes!


One of the latest attempts to climb on the north face of Skolio.




Enjoying the view.



Eva Walkner skiing down Stefani coloir (photo © Ruedi Flueck)


Wishes for a fine summer with plenty and safe climbs!
MS
2010-05-27 : Refuge summer season starts on May 22nd
The refuge is dialy open from June 2nd for the summer season of 2010. For reservatrions please contact with Mike Styllas, Tel +306937361689 or mstyllas @ olympus-climbing.gr

Mike Styllas
2008-11-21 : Winter open of "Christos Kakalos" refuge
The refuge will be open from 15th December 2008. For more information and reservations, please contact:

Mr. Mihalis Stillas
mobile: 0030 6937 361 689
email: mstyllas@gmail.com
2008-11-19 : The expedition to Makalu has been completed
Despite of his successful initial preparation for climbing Makalu peak, the ascent was stopped. When Mihalis went from ABC to C2 (second camp at 6600m), he met a terrible scenery: his tent had collapsed from the storm, weather conditions were severe and there was constant wind of 40km/h. After he hardly found and collected the camp's equipment, he turned way down to ABC camp. Next day he descended to base camp where he met Marco, Steve and Vincent. Tomorrow on the 7th November 2008, all three of them are heading back to the village, a long return as the approach takes at least 4 days. As soon as we have more details from his trip, we will inform you!
2008-09-05 : The refuge will be open
The refuge Christos Kakalos will be open until the end of October. In order to make registrations, please contact with the refuge's manager Mike Stylla in the phone number +30 6937361689.

Contact: Mike Styllas, Tel +306937361689, mstyllas @ olympus-climbing.gr